Eating the Horse

Mark Wunderlich

I was served the horse steak, and it came

on a sizzling stone. I wore a bib

to keep the fat from spoiling my shirt.


The steak was the size of my hand

and it bubbled as the tissues were cooked,

and juices ran and steamed up on the stone


as the meat began to retract. The blood

cooked out of it, as did the paddock

where the horse had lived, which no one cleaned—


that and the cold meadow he was born in.

Last winter was seared from the meat,

as was the timothy hay, which was moldy,


as August had been damp and the barn roof

had leaked. The horse’s dam was still alive then,

though her teeth were bad and she slobbered


when she chewed. I bit down on what remained

of his indifferent owner, the pinworms

and botflies abundant that June, the clover


he preferred and the little sour apples

that fell from the neighbor’s unpruned tree.

I ate that last trailer ride to the auction,


where the horse’s shambling gait had marked him

for his future on my plate. I ate his entire past—

all of it. I ate his sturdy, unloved back.


how did this poem begin for you?

I was in Bern, Switzerland, a few summers ago, and while at a restaurant, I ordered a steak. When it was served, I found that it was particularly delicious—a little gamey, a bit spicy—and when I examined the menu once again, I realized I was eating horse meat. I wondered why, as Americans, we have such an ardent prohibition against eating horses but are perfectly willing to eat lots of other animals of similar or greater intelligence. I think it may have something to do with horses not being raised as food, but they sometimes end up on a dinner plate because they prove insufficiently alluring as companions to people. The poem imagines the life of the animal before it was slaughtered and, in the end, implicates me in that unhappy event.

Mark Wunderlich is the author of, most recently, MATEY, as well as four other books of poems and two artist’s books. Wunderlich serves as executive director of the Bennington Writing Seminars at Vermont’s Bennington College, and he lives in New York’s Hudson Valley.
Originally published:
March 11, 2026

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